Day 1 - Travel Day

• flights - Gdansk to Amsterdam, Amsterdam to Casablanca 
• once checked in we began exploring the City on foot 

Day 2 - Casablanca 

• started our day with a traditional Moroccan Breakfast - True to its French history the breakfast featured breads, jams and croissants 
• participated in a three hour walking tour of Casablanca’ New City, Old City and the Hassan II Mosque
• enjoyed a traditional lunch in the historic Fortress of La Sqala - The tagines were spectacular 
• watched the sunset from a sidewalk cafe while drinking delicious mint tea

Day 3 - Rabat

• we took a morning train to Rabat - cheap, easy and convenient way to travel 
• admired a Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
• visited the famous landmark - Hassan Tower and beautifully decorated Mausoleum of Mohamed V 
• enjoyed a ride on the modern tram to Old Medina 
• visited Kasbah Les Oudaias - Rabat’s historic citadel 
• returned to Rabat Medina and enjoyed a delicious couscous lunch in a local cafe 
• strolled Mohammed V avenue in the Ville Nouvelle (New City)
• took an afternoon train back to Casablanca

Day 4 - Casablanca 

• enjoyed a guided tour of the Hassan II Mosque  - third largest Mosque in the world capable of accommodating 25 000 worshippers inside and countless thousand more on the outer grounds
• explored the Casablanca Mdina one last time 
• attended a orientational meeting with our Tour Guide and met our follow tour participants 

Day 5 - Tangier and Chefchaouen 

• we took a morning fast train from Casablanca to coastal City of Tangier
• explored a self guided tour of the Medina and the Kasbah
• enjoyed lunch with a epic view of the Strait of Gibraltar at the Café Hafa, which has hosted celebrities in the past like Sean Connery, The Beatles and The Rolling Stones
• crossed the stunning Rif Mountains and drove to famous “Blue City” of Chefchaouen

Day 6 - Chefchaouen “The Blue City”

• experienced “a thousand shades of blue” in the Old Medina 
• sampled the delicious local specialties - Chicken Pastisi, Arabiata Tajine and the local goat cheese (and the orange juice is delicious!)
• enjoyed a scrub and a steam bath in a traditional Moroccan hammam 
• hiked to the viewpoint at the Spanish Mosque to see a beautiful sunset

Day 7 - Chefchaouen to Fes

• departed Chefchaouen early in the morning and drove across the Rif Mountains to the Ancient Roman City of Volubilis
• took a guided tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site - the 13 th. Century ruins were simply spectacular 
• drove from Volubilis to the Royal City of Fes
• enjoyed a traditional Moroccan dinner in a ryad (Traditional Moroccan House) including six types of salads, traditional chicken pastisi and soft cookies!

Day 8 - Fez

• visited the outer grounds of King Mohamed VI’s Massive Royal Palace  
• enjoyed the panoramic view from Borj Sud Fortress (The South Tower) overlooking the Fez Medina
• visited a ceramics co-op where potters were working in old traditional ways
• took a guided walking tour of the Old Medina, known locally as Fes el Bali
• stepped back into the Middle Ages in the labyrinth of the medina, which is alive with craftsmen, markets, tanneries and mosques - this is one of the largest car-free urban zones in the world - Over 500 000 residents 
• visited Medersa Bou Inania – one of the city's most beautiful buildings, recently restored 
• visited Medresse el Attarine and the splendid Funduk Nejjarine – a beautifully restored 18th-century inn
• visited Al-Qarawiyyin library in Fez, Morocco, is the world's oldest, continuously running library. It dates back to 859 AD - part of the complex that includes Qarawiyyin Mosque and Qarawiyyin University
• visited a famous tannery, known for the iconic view overlooking its dye pits (A smell not soon to be forgotten)
• enjoyed a traditional lunch in one of the roof terrace restaurants
• visited local craftsman workshops - learned about Moroccan agawa silk called Sabra!

Day 9 - Sahara Desert

• departed from Fez in the early morning and drove towards the Sahara Desert 
• enjoyed views of local kasbahs and palmeries (valleys lush with date palms, fields and orchards)
• crossed the stunning High Atlas Mountains and into the Ziz Valley
• visited Ziz Gorge and the Ziz Oasis
• enjoyed local lunch at Afouss, followed by a 1.5-hour drive to Merzouga, located in the Sahara Desert
• embarked on a camel ride through beautiful Erg Chebbi red sand dunes 
• enjoyed the sunset before continuing to our desert camp accommodation 
• spent evening under the Sahara desert stars enjoying a fire and Bedouin music

Day 10 - Sahara Desert to El Khorbat and to Todra Gorge 

• took a early morning camel ride 
• enjoyed a beautiful sunrise over Sahara Desert 
• learned about irrigation systems and water dwellings in Khettara 
• enjoyed a wonderful traditional lunch including camel tagine for the gastronomically adventurous 
• visited the Kasbah village and tribal museum of El Khorbat
• drove through the beautiful Todra Valley, dotted with mud-brick villages perched on hillsides

Day 11 - Todra Gorge 

• took guided 10 km hike through the Todra Gorge and over the nearby mountain pass
• enjoyed mint tea with a local Berber family housed on the mountain and leading a nomadic life
• enjoyed lunch at the local mudbrick kasbah - delicious chick peas soup,  salad and Berber pizza 
• visited the local hammam - public bath, for a scrub and relaxation
• shopped at the local market in Tinghir

Day 12 - Ouarzazate to Ait Benhaddou 

• drove the Valley of a Thousands Kasbah - past scenic kasbah ruins, mountains and valleys of palm trees 
• visited the rose town of Kelaa Mgouna where they grow the famous Damascus roses 
• seen amazing kasbah (fortified house with four towers) and souk (market place) in Ouarzazate
• had Riffisa (dish made of chicken and peas) for lunch
• shot a movie in the impressive Atlas Studios (where Gladiator, Black Hawk Down, Lawrence of Arabia and Cleopatra and many other blockbusters were filmed)
• visited the  grand kasbah in Ait Benbaddou – an impressive example of clay architecture that has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site

Day 13 - Aroumd

• traveled over the spectacular Tizi n'Tichka Pass (2260 metres above sea level) to Toubkal National Park, home to the highest mountain in North Africa
• passed snow capped mountains and lush valleys in full flower 
• visited the rural village of Imlil
• from Imlil we hiked up hill to Aroumd - a small peaceful mountain village with stunning views across the High Atlas Mountains 
• spent the night in a family-run mountain home at the foot of Mount Toubkal
• enjoyed some traditional family hospitality and mouth-watering home-cooked food

Day 14 - Aroumd to Essaouira

• took an early morning hike through Imlil’s outlying villages to Sidi Chamharouch, a local pilgrimage site 
• explored rural villages with breathtaking mountain landscapes
• enjoyed slow-cooked tagine and lentils made by a local family for lunch
• hiked back to Aroumd to pick our luggage and drove eastward toward the Atlantic Ocean 
• stopped at and toured the Afous Argan co-operative of Beduin woman where we learned about benefits of argan oil 
• at sunset we arrived at the old fishing town of Essaouira where we enjoyed watching the sunset by the ocean 
• enjoyed a hot shower in the hotel before heading for another traditional dinner
• ⁠following dinner we explored the local streets filled with whitewashed houses, the surrounding beaches and dunes

Day 15 - Essaouira

• enjoyed a morning walking tour through the old medina, Jewish mellah and Skala (sea wall) 
• visited one of the oldest harbors in Morocco, where fishing is still quite traditional
• strolled beautiful narrow streets of this World Heritage city
• enjoyed visiting local shops and art galleries
• enjoyed a traditional Moroccan hot shave 
• watched the sunset from the Ancient City’s Fortified Walls while leaning against a 15 th. Cannon 

Day 16 - Marrakesh 

• took an early morning bus to Marrakesh
• enjoyed a guided walking tour through the bustling medina 
• enjoyed the alluring scents and brilliant colours of the spice markets
• embraced the pulsing crowds of shoppers, tourists, musicians, henna artists monkey trainings and snake charmers at the famous Djemaa el-Fna Square - one of the largest public spaces in the world and unique to Marrakech

Day 17 - Marrakesh 

• enjoyed a lazy morning and a late breakfast
• secured future train tickets back to Casablanca  
• visited the amazing Jardin Majorelle - the most iconic gardens in Marrakesh, the former home and current resting place of Yves Saint Laurent
• had lunch in one of the roof-tops cafes with amazing view of the snow covered Atlas mountains 
• enjoyed a good-bye dinner and drinks with our travel family

Day 18 - Marrakech 

• visited the stunning Bahia Palace - where rooms are decorated with stunning stuccos, paintings, mosaics and spectacular gardens
• enjoyed lunch at the Henna Art Cafe 
• visited the Museum Dar el Bacha - It is one of the medina's finest examples of riad architecture, dripping with zellige (colourful geometric tilework), intricate white plasterwork and heavy carved cedar-wood lintels
• visited the crazy Jemaa el-Fnaa Square for amazing fresh juice that we love so much!!!

Day 19 - Marrakech 

• enjoyed a morning Guided Walking Tour of the Medina 
• visited the exterior of Koutoubia Mosque
• walked through the Kasbah of Marrakesh via the main entrance of Bab Agnaou
• made a quick stop by the Royal Palace of Morocco, home of the current king when he is in Marrakech 
• visited The Jewish Quater
• visited the Moroccan Museum of Culinary Arts, such a magnificent building! 
• enjoyed a last local lunch with friends from our tour
• completed what will hopefully be our last shopping in the Old Medina
• visited Souk des Teinturiers - one of the many markets here
• dodged monkeys, snake charmers, Fortune Tellers, Henna Artists, acrobats, zooming scooters and countless trinket Sellers in Jemaa el-Fnaa Square

Day 20 - Marrakech 

• enjoyed coffee and pastries in the famous Bacha Coffee located in the spectacular Dar el Bacha palace
• visited The Maison de la Photographie housing an archive of Moroccan history
• enjoyed a last evening shopping, food and craziness in the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square

Day 21 - Marrakech to Casablanca

• spend a lazy last morning in Marrakech drinking coffee on our Ryad’s rooftop 
• took the train to Casablanca - a true “Old School” experience! 

Day 22 - Travel Day

• took a morning flight home

We spent 21 days there and covered a total of 2.5 thousand km. We organised part of it ourselves, and for a part we joined an organized trip (Intrepid). Below are some notes and comments - all subjective 😊

GENERAL INFORMATION

• you have to use bottled water, even for teeth
• electric plug as in Poland
• up to 90 days without a visa 
• we bought an eSIM from Airlo - it works poorly, problems with connecting to the network, no more use of WiFi in hotels, etc.
• in large restaurants, museums, shops and stations we paid by card (Revolut); in smaller, cash only
• Islam so long pants and long sleeves; it was very cold in the morning and evening (January/February) so a jacket and hats
• most people speak French and at least a little English
• Morocco is a very poor country, you can see it at every step, children unfortunately stretch out their hands for money or to give them sweets - often, unfortunately, it is us tourists who shape people's behaviour
• we always ask if we can take a photo - most Moroccans agreed with a smile; 
• the number of cats at every step, fed regularly by residents; dogs have it a little worse, but there are some clips on the ears available - they are vaccinated
• you have to be careful when giving change - it happened to us twice (both in Marrakech) that we gave a 200 MAD banknote and were given change up to 100 MAD - after firm attention, we got the remaining 100 MAD
• if we do not buy in a store but at the market, remember to haggle - (e.g. the price starts from 650 MAD and ultimately we buy for e.g. 200 MAD)
• if you ask about the price, it means that you are interested - sellers feel the interest and are more intense - a smile and a calm "thank you, maybe later" sometimes helps
• it's worth having some change for tips, there are often ladies sitting next to the toilets and they will give you some toilet paper for a coin (it used to be like that in Poland 😉
• you cannot take photos of policemen and military personnel, especially at roadblocks
• we used maps.me and Google maps - they worked; although when looking for a Riad (a hotel in former private houses somewhere in the Medina), it is worth asking for someone to pick us up - often the entrance is hidden in some small street, behind a gate, another street and finally in the tunnel there is a small, inconspicuous door - and behind it a beautiful Riad - we would never find it ourselves
• you have to be careful with people who want to show you somewhere, take you somewhere, etc. - they may often demand money later
• you have to be very careful with scooters driving non-stop on narrow streets, especially in Medina, where there is no car traffic

TRANSPORT

• neither Bolt nor Uber works
• we flew to Casablanca - the best option to the city is the train from the airport - (every 60 min, 60 MAD, journey 45 min) to Casa Port 
• modern and elegant train network, beautiful modern stations, easily accessible information - tickets at ticket offices or vending machines; also available on the ONCF Voyages website, 
• trains were clean, on time and comfortable - Casablanca to Rabat (45 MAD); Marrakesh to Casablanca (1st class, 215 MAD)
• taxis - they are reluctant to turn on the taximeter, it is best to set the price before the trip so that there are no surprises 
• Esquqira to Marrakesh bus - 3h, 100 MAD - large, comfortable bus
• main roads are quite good, new asphalt etc., apart from the main roads it is rather packed dirt
• outside the cities, there are many police stops and roadblocks on the roads - they check your documents, you must wear seat belts!

WEATHER

• we were there in January/February and despite the sun we were surprised by the cold - sweatshirts, jackets, woolen hats
• in the desert, as expected, it was super cold at night - we slept in thermal clothing, sweatshirts and hats, even though you can wear shorts during the day (guys)
• in the mountains, of course, thermal underwear - the higher, the colder 
• most places where we stayed had air conditioning with a heating function or an electric heater 😉

FOOD

• Coffee - strong, good coffee from an espresso machine (French influence) - 10-20 MAD they often serve coffee with additional water (in a small bottle for tourists)
• Mint tea - usually black tea in granules with sprigs of fresh mint - sweet and hot (you have to ask for it without sugar) - 10-15 MAD
• TAGINE - meat or vegetables cooked in a characteristic pot with a clay tent - delicious, aromatic, meat mainly cooked with fruit (apricots, dates) - 70 vegetarian, 120 chicken/beef
• Chicken wrap - meat, vegetables plus pita - 20-35 MAD
• Couscous - they eat mainly on Friday; but you can order it everywhere, they serve it with vegetables or meat
• Camel tagine - a bit similar to beef for us, delicious 
• Bread - local sellers everywhere on the streets - MAD 1 for a pita 
• Freshly squeezed orange juice - 13-20 MAD

CASABLANCA 

• we went on the Free Walking Tour (free, i.e. you give a tip at the end) - 2.5 hours, our guide Sufyan was very communicative, he led it great
• not much to see - a few squares, the Old Medina, La Sqala fortress (now a restaurant) and the gigantic Husain II Mosque
• La Sqala restaurant - delicious Tajin (145 beef; 70 vegetarian)
• Hassan II Mosque - (140 MAD, including guide) guided tour at 8:00, 9:00, 10:00, 11:00 and probably 14:00 - in language groups (English, Spanish, Italian) the gentleman talked interestingly for 45 minutes, gave time for photos, etc.; you take off your shoes (they give you a net); in summer it's probably good to have your own socks 😉 you have to cover your knees and shoulders, but you don't have to cover your hair, tickets are next to the mosque in the museum, the museum itself is tiny 
• when checking out of the hotel, we were asked to pay city tax in cash - MAD 20 per day (we paid for the room via booking)

RABAT

• Casa Port train to Rabat Ville (45 MAD, 65 min, every 40-60 min)
• a completely different vibe - clean, spacious, nice wide streets
• quiet and modern trams run by (line 2 to Old Medina - MAD 12 for an hourly ticket)
• Hassan Tower and Mausoleum (free) - worth seeing, especially the Mausoleum - a richly decorated building with a representative guard
• Old Medina - a labyrinth of streets and shops, mainly shoes and Chinese food, but also spices, etc., very few tourists; great places where you can sit outside and eat grilled sardines, vegetables, etc
• Kasbah - definitely worth it, beautiful view of the ocean, beaches and port, a tangle of charming streets, cafes and art galleries
• a lovely café overlooking the water, Café des Oudayas

TANGIER

• Medina - a labyrinth of streets and shops, Berber Market for tourists 
• Kasbach - ruins of the Citadel - we did not enter the museum, there are several charming streets inside the walls
• Café Hafa - a café where Hemingway frequented, a good 20-minute walk from the Medina; a network of terraces on the mountainside overlooking the Strait and Spain, coffee 15 MAD, vegetarian tagine 40 MAD

CHEFCHAOUEN 

• the famous "blue city" is really impressive (previously only the bottom of the buildings, with the advent of Instagram they started painting the whole thing)
• the best time for taking photos - 8:00-9:00 in the morning, shops open from 10:00, tourists arrive from 11:00
• the old medina is one big Instagram postcard - let's remember that people live there and the blue buildings are their homes
• Kasbah - a citadel in the middle of the city 80 MAD - not worth it, inside there is one room with posters in Spanish and Arabic, and a tower 
• better view of the town from the restaurant terrace opposite - Bilmos restaurant - delicious food (Tajin 60-80)
• we were in a great hammam, The Ben Azzuz Hamman - a public bathhouse - 100 MAD included in the price, the lady washes you, exfoliates and massages you 😉 a very relaxing experience 😉 public bathhouse - you are naked, in the company of other women, your own towel and shampoo; we bought Moroccan paste soap - amazing! Very local, very nice experience 😉
• it is worth climbing to the Spanish Mosque for sunset - a beautiful view of the town and the mountains around
• delicious freshly squeezed orange juice everywhere - 15-20 MAD

VOLUBILLIS

• Roman ruins of a city where 20,000 people once lived
• we took one-hour guided tour
• next to the entrance there is a restaurant with food and a toilet (tajin 60-90, chicken skewers) 
• it's worth having a hat and sunscreen, because there are no trees in the archaeological park

FES 

• the gigantic Medina (half a million people live there) - we spent the whole day there visiting various places
• Medersa El Attarine - a beautiful building, once a Koran school
• Mosaique Et Poterie De Fes - workshops where you can watch how ceramics are made
• Chouara Tannery - "must see" but oh my god I have never smelled such a stench, when you enter you are given a sprig of mint to hold to your nose, you go to the terrace for "free" time to take photos and on the way out you visit a gigantic shop (everyone is polite, no one pressures you to buy)
• University and library - unfortunately closed to visitors, although founded by a woman, now only men can study
• Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts - a museum in a beautiful old building
• Souk Sebbaghine, The Dyers' District - market where they dye and sell wool

MERZOUGA - SAHARA

• overnight stay in the Sahara was part of our trip, but I think you can organize it yourself
• we do NOT support the use of animals - we chose a place where camels were well cared for and are a source of income for the local community - those working with tourists have a better life than those working on farms 
• we arrived in Merzouga, camels were waiting, after an hour we reached a small camp - large tents, each with two 3-person rooms, bedding and blankets (it was super cold 🥶 at night), bathrooms (they had showers, but we didn't use them ;), delicious dinner (tagline) and an evening by the bonfire under the stars
• we were warned that there would be no electricity, but there was a plug in each tent 
• around the wonderful orange dunes of Erg Chebbi
• in the morning, sunrise and return on camels to Hotel Kasbah le Toureg

EL KHORBAT

• Ksar El Khobrat - a fascinating museum run by local women - presents the life and customs of the various tribes living in Marko
• next to the restaurant El Khoubrat with delicious food - set menu 100-160 MAD - Camel Tagine with dates - delicious!

TODRA GORGE

• we stayed at Hotel Kasbah Taborithe
• in the morning we did a 10 km trek through Todra Gorge and the surrounding mountains - medium level of difficulty, wonderful views 
• on the way we visited the Berber family living in a cave on the mountain - they offered us tea, they make their living by grazing goats in the mountains
• lunch at Cooperative Ahlam - (100 MAD) local women weave and sell beautiful carpets
• in the evening we used the local hammam (there are women's and men's options) - MAD 100 - soap and scraper included - it was Sunday, so bathing day, rather crowded inside - fantastic, very local experience

KEALAA MGOUNA

• a town famous for growing Damascus roses 🌹 
• full of shops and little shops selling soaps, oils and rose water (although I had the impression that it was not cheap)

AIT BENHADDOU

• a large, beautiful kasabah (entrance free) on the mountain slope
• now inhabited by four families
• often used as a set in films, they also built a set at one of the gates
• we stayed at the guesthouse La Fibule Dor - a traditional family building, hot showers and delicious food, view of the kasbah from the terrace

ESSQUAIRA

• a charming seaside town with beautiful wide sandy beaches
• high and low tides twice a day 
• Old Medina full of pubs, shops and nooks, many restaurants have terraces on the roof - delicious seafood 😉
• probably the best place to buy souvenirs - better prices and quieter than, for example, Marrakech
• Fish Market - you choose fresh fish and seafood, pay by weight, they clean and prepare them on site - delicious!!! 😋 it was 75 MAD per person for a great dinner 
• La Scala Fortress - 15 cannons on the walls - a popular place for sunset 
• it's worth going before 10:00 in the morning, before the shops open - the streets are almost empty 
• many interesting corners and galleries with art, photos and paintings
• the main market street is bustling with life until 11 p.m

MARRAKECH 

• the madness of the drivers is immediately obvious - you have to be very careful when crossing the road 
• the famous Djemaa el-Fna Square - at 4 p.m. there are restaurants in the middle, full of people until midnight - jugglers, snake charmers, ladies making henna, fortune tellers, artists, musicians, shopkeepers, pubs, juice sellers, sellers of everything and tricksters - a pandemonium of sounds, colors and flavors 
• we do NOT take photos of snakes, monkeys on chains, etc. - we do not support this in any way 
• there is a working ATM near the post office building - some of the ATMs on the square had handwritten notes that they accept cards - we did not check
• Souk Semmarine - one of the many Medina, a labyrinth of streets and shops
• Koutoubia Mosque - the largest mosque in Marrakech with a 77 m high tower; inaccessible to tourists
• YSL gardens - ONLY online reservations, we made them in the morning at 2 p.m.; there are long queues at the entrance, but it goes smoothly, we were inside for 2 hours; a wonderful oasis of peace, greenery and birdsong
• Bahia Palace (100 MAD) - although part of it is under renovation (after the earthquake in 2023) it is definitely worth it, wonderful architecture, decorations and interiors 
• Museum Dar el Bacha (60 MAD) - beautiful decorations and mosaics, a wonderful cafe inside, unfortunately you have to sign up on the list and wait for a table, we didn't make it in the afternoon, so we came back the next morning
• Bacha Cafe - the most famous cafe etc., you pay 10 MAD for entry, enter the museum, sign up on the list, wait for a table - the interior, coffee, service - wonderful 😉 interestingly, the prices are not scary - coffee 44 MAD, croissants - 45 MAD
• Museum of Photography - (60 MAD) great black and white photographs from the beginning of the century 
• Moroccan Culinary Arts Museum - next to Bahia Palace - free admission - nice building, interesting compilation of raw materials and dishes; cooking courses
• you have to be very careful with the scooters driving non-stop on the narrow streets of the Medina 

Morocco is a wonderful country full of contradictions - it is difficult to describe in words the colors, smells, ceramics, architecture, human poverty, the bustle of markets and the silence of the desert. It was a great trip for us. Shokran.